In the Spotlight: Diana Vreeland, The Visionary Editor Who Redefined Fashion
Diana Vreeland captured by Horst P Horst.
Diana Vreeland was more than an editor; she was a force of nature, a cultural tastemaker who didn’t merely follow trends, she created them. Her influence spanned decades, reshaping the world of fashion and transforming magazines into platforms for artistic storytelling. From ‘Harper’s Bazaar’ to ‘Vogue’, and later, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, Vreeland’s legacy remains unmatched in its scope and impact.
Born into an aristocratic family in Belle Époque Paris in 1903, Vreeland’s early life was suffused with glamour and a near-magical quality. Her childhood included horseback riding with Buffalo Bill, attending performances of the Ballet Russes, and mingling with her parents’ illustrious friends, such as Vaslav Nijinsky. This cosmopolitan upbringing instilled in her an unrelenting pursuit of sophistication and originality.
Diana Vreeland and husband Thomas Reed Vreeland.
In 1924, she married banker Thomas Reed Vreeland, the man she would forever regard as the love of her life. Together, they embarked on a whirlwind journey, settling first in Paris, where Diana enjoyed personal fittings with Coco Chanel. Later in London, she opened a lingerie boutique, famously outfitting Wallis Simpson for her historic rendezvous with King Edward VIII, a testament to Vreeland’s instinct for style and intrigue.
In 1934, the Vreelands returned to New York, where Carmel Snow, the Editor-in-Chief of Harper’s Bazaar recognised Diana’s unparalleled flair and tapped her to join the magazine’s masthead. This prescient hire marked the beginning of a revolutionary career. At Harper’s Bazaar, Vreeland rewrote the rules of editorial fashion. Eschewing the conservative cues of Park Avenue doyennes, she championed the audacious, introducing blue jeans, thong sandals, and even the bikini to her readership. Her iconic column “Why Don’t You...?” epitomized her whimsical and aspirational approach, inspiring readers with ideas that were as fanciful as they were achievable.
Vreeland as Editor-in-Chief
Despite her transformative tenure, when ‘Harper’s Bazaar’ passed her over for the editor-in-chief position, Vreeland left for ‘Vogue’ in 1962. As editor-in-chief, she redefined the magazine, turning it into an artistic manifesto perfectly attuned to the rebellious and creative spirit of the ’60s. Under her leadership, ‘Vogue’ featured bold profiles on rock icons like Mick Jagger and John Lennon, and published stunning fashion editorials shot in exotic locales. Vreeland’s approach to editorial storytelling blurred the lines between fashion, art, and culture, cementing her status as the first true fashion editor in the modern sense.
Vreeland’s refusal to leave Paris at the onset of World War II further illustrated her deep connection to the fashion world. She stayed until the last possible moment, famously declaring she couldn’t bear the thought of not knowing when she might see Chanel again. This sentiment encapsulated her unwavering loyalty to the relationships and artistry that shaped her life.
In 1971, Diana Vreeland departed ‘Vogue’ but quickly found a new avenue for her creativity at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. She breathed new life into the museum with dazzling retrospectives, focusing on figures like Yves Saint Laurent and Hollywood’s golden age. Her exhibitions weren’t just displays; they were experiences, merging scholarship with spectacle and reinforcing her role as a cultural curator.
Her eccentric philosophies extended to the minutiae of life. She once quipped, “I don’t need a handbag; all I need is a pocket,” embodying her pragmatic yet unconventional worldview. Her fascination with icons such as Wallis Simpson, combined with her relentless pursuit of the new, defined her editorial voice; a voice that celebrated individuality and challenged conformity.
Even after her passing in 1989, Vreeland’s legacy continues to inspire. Her grandson Alexander has honored her memory with a fragrance collection inspired by her favourite scents, housed in bottles tinted red; her signature colour, representing passion and drama.
Diana Vreeland Fragrances
Diana Vreeland’s life was a tapestry of bold choices, relentless ambition, and unparalleled creativity. Her vision reminded the world that fashion isn’t simply about clothes; it’s about storytelling, reinvention, and imagination. As she once declared, “There’s only one very good life, and that’s the life that you know you want, and you make it yourself.” Through her lasting contributions, Vreeland remains an inspiration, urging us all to embrace the extraordinary.
Vreeland famously inspired the character of magazine editor Maggie Prescott in Funny Face (1957), starring Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire